Preparing for Passages: Crew Comfort and Safety

At night Patrick would be connected to the yellow jacklines with a tether.

At night Patrick would be connected to the yellow jacklines with a tether.

I’m going to stray a bit off topic today and talk about passage-making.  Much has been written about provisioning and preparations for ocean passages, but most of the passages that cruisers make (especially in Pacific Mexico) are shorter.  We typically make passages of 18 – 72 hours, with occasional 4 – 6 day passages.

Mac and Cheese is a favorite passage food on Legacy.

Mac and Cheese is a favorite passage food on Legacy.

Food:  First, let’s talk about food – since this IS the Cruising Cook’s blog!  Right off I’ll let you know that I rarely cook on passage!  Typically there are just two of us aboard, so if I’m cooking while on watch I’m constantly running up and down the stairs to check the horizon and the sails.  If I’m off watch, any cooking I do is cutting into my sleep time.  Instead, I stock the fridge and cabinets with easy to grab, easy to reheat foods.  For a 2 – 3 day passage, I generally make a big pan of something and we’ll eat that for dinners and sometimes lunch as well.  Some of my passage favorites are mac and cheese, shepard’s pie, quiche, chicken tetrazzini, and macaroni beef.  I stay away from spicier dishes underway.

The snack cabinet holds munchies and quick foods for the crew.

The snack cabinet holds munchies and quick foods for the crew.

In addition to our main entrée, I often make muffins or cookies, hard boil eggs, pre-slice cheese (or stock string cheese), cut carrot sticks or fruit, and ensure that sandwich makings are close at hand.  I arrange the fridge before a passage to make sure that all these foods and some drinks are easily accessible at the top.  We also keep one designated “snack cabinet” on board.  Anything in that cabinet is fair game at any time of the day or night.  For passages, I’ll stock it with cookies, chips, nuts, trail mix, energy bars, crackers, microwave popcorn, chocolate, and hard candies. Sometimes, we carry microwavable cups of soup or noodles, especially in cooler climates.  It’s important to stay hydrated on passage so we keep filled water bottles in the cockpit with a backup supply in the fridge for a cold water treat.

Our two-person watch schedule has two one-hour overlaps and a 5 hour off-watch for each.

Our two-person watch schedule has two one-hour overlaps and a 5 hour off-watch for each.

We arrange our watch schedule to overlap for two one-hour blocks each day – in the morning during the single sideband (SSB) nets and again at dinner time.  It’s nice to be able to eat dinner together and chat about our day rather than just passing, bleary-eyed, at watch change time!  Other than dinner, we eat whenever we feel like it and are responsible for getting our own meals or snacks.  The person going off watch in the morning usually makes a pot of coffee before the “overlap” hour, but we get our own breakfasts whenever the urge strikes.

Underway our settee berth provides a secure place to sleep and a view of the nav station.

Underway our settee berth provides a secure place to sleep and a view of the nav station.

Crew Comfort:  Because sleep is vitally important on passage, we set up a comfortable “nest” for the off-watch crew.  Both settees have lee cloths, and we set them up before we leave the harbor.  The port settee is for us, and we arrange it with a sheet, a fleece blanket, a couple of pillows, a fan, a light, and lots of ear plugs!  We also like to have our headlamps available, both for on-deck use and for reading off-watch.  Spare headlamp batteries are kept in a convenient location.

Shepherd's pie (slightly crunchy mashed potatoes atop meat and vegetables in gravy) is another favorite on Legacy

Shepherd’s pie (slightly crunchy mashed potatoes atop meat and vegetables in gravy) is another favorite on Legacy

We set up our starboard settee lee cloth as well, and this is a secure place for the dogs to hang out on passage.  And, although we rarely use our forward Pullman berth underway, we also set up that lee cloth.  The Pullman berth is where we stage everything we think we will need on passage, including a change of clothes, our daily medications, and warm gear for the cooler nighttime watches.

One other note about crew comfort:  if you have ANY tendency to seasickness, we highly recommend that you take appropriate remedies BEFORE leaving the harbor.  Although we rarely get seasick, we always use scopolamine patches for the first passage of the season, and for any passage that may be rough.  And, we always choose our weather windows carefully to increase our odds of an easy passage.

Charlie, Kira and Minnow wear their life jackets any time Legacy is underway.

Charlie, Kira and Minnow wear their life jackets any time Legacy is underway as here while on passage to Ecuador.

Crew Safety:  This category is the most important for the health and well-being of the crew.  We have some basic safety rules which are always in effect.  For one, no one leaves the cabin without a life vest when we are underway, including the dogs!  In addition, from sunset to sunrise, anyone on deck must wear a safety tether connected to the jacklines.  And if the on-watch crew has to go out of the cockpit in rough conditions or for anything major, they always wake up the off-watch crew and have them come on deck.  During the hours of darkness, we keep the dogs belowdecks except for a supervised potty stop during watch change.

Although we always sail safely, when we first started cruising my biggest fear was that I would wake up from my off-watch nap and find that my partner was no longer aboard.  To alleviate those fears, we added a Man Overboard (MOB) alert system.  We both wear transmitters attached to our life vests.  If the transmitter gets more than 50 or 100 feet from the base station, it sets off a loud alarm belowdecks.  Since we installed that device, I sleep much more soundly off-watch.

One more note about safety:  We strongly feel that cruising couples should set, and stick to, a watch schedule.  We’ve seen too many couples where the man will stay on watch until he’s exhausted, and then the woman will take over for a couple of hours while he naps.  Sleep deprivation leads to stupid mistakes, and a sailor who has been on watch for too long is not going to be at his best in an emergency.

We find that we enjoy 2-3 day passages, and generally prefer them to day-hopping along the coast.  Passages allow us to spend more time in the anchorages we enjoy, and less time in marginal anchorages chosen just to let us get the anchor down before dark.

Fair winds and following seas,

Heather, the Cruising Cook

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Mexican Gold Coast — Update to CCGMx, February 2013

A Cruising Cooks Guide to MexicoAs with Mazatlan, we found a number of changes when we returned to the Gold Coast of Mexico in 2012/13.  Some of the changes are for the good and, unfortunately, some not so good.  The following are updates to A Cruising Cook’s Guide to Mexico, first edition.

Barra de Navidad:  Sadly, Maria is no longer operating her tienda or custom provisioning service in Colimilla, as she wanted to spend more time with her family and on other ventures.  However, she and her husband continue to provide water, propane, and laundry service, touring the lagoon in their panga.  In early 2013, her radio was not working, but you can reach her at  314-337-9086 . You can also drop propane tanks or laundry at Fortino’s restaurant for her.

Her uncle still has his excellent fish market.  As you travel down the Colimilla beach between Fortino’s restaurant and Mary’s restaurant, you will see the panga landing.  Just behind the beach, you’ll see a long wall with “Fish Market” and an arrow on it.  Land your dinghy on the beach and follow the sign up the street to a white building.  On a recent visit, we bought a kilo of dorado and a kilo of large shrimp at reasonable prices.  All the fish is frozen, which we prefer for stocking up.  If you want fresh fish, try the fish markets between the water taxis and dinghy dock in Barra.

Barra's best fruit and vegetable market - Fruiteria Ixtapa.

Barra’s best fruit and vegetable market – Fruiteria Ixtapa.

We sorely missed Maria when re-provisioning in Barra.  The tiendas were less well stocked than I remembered.  Costa Alegre, across from the ATM, seemed to be the best supplied with a few gourmet and Asian ingredients.  Fruiteria Ixtapa continues to be a good source of produce, particularly after re-supply on Tuesdays and Fridays.

The French Baker now has his own panda complete with cheerful bell.

The French Baker now has his own panga complete with cheerful bell.

The French Baker is still making his rounds each day in the marina and the lagoon with his delectable pastries.  With one day’s notice, he will also bake nice loaves of whole wheat, multigrain, or rye bread.  He now has his own panga, complete with the French Baker sign, and a little bell that he rings as he approaches your boat.  Just the tinkle of the bell is enough to make me start drooling like Pavlov’s dogs!

Melaque:  This slightly larger town has more and larger tiendas than Barra, and is another option for re-provisioning.  Super Hawaii continues to attract gringos with its selection of hard-to-find items, including baked beans, snack crackers (Goldfish and Cheeze-its!), U.S. multigrain breads, and imported canned goods.  Some of the prices are really high, however, so make sure to check the tags.  Melaque also has well-supplied hardware stores.  The bus is currently 6 pesos from Barra to Melaque and a cab back was 50 pesos.

Playa Tenacatita:  This formerly popular small town at the head of the “Jungle River” is no longer accessible to cruisers.  A land deal gone bad resulted in the bulldozing of the restaurants and tiendas.  The town is now fenced off and patrolled by guards and/or municipal police.

"Flat chickens" on the grill at Pollo Asada in La Manzanilla.

“Flat chickens” on the grill at Pollo Asada in La Manzanilla.

La Manzanilla:  Juan is now providing water taxi service in his panga between the Tenacatita anchorage and La Manzanilla.  This is an excellent option for those cruisers that don’t want to take their big boat across the bay or just want to avoid the wet dinghy landing and takeoff in La Manzanilla.  Note that the trip back across the bay can be wet, even in a panga.  Juan doesn’t speak English, but if you have a bit of Spanish, you can contact him at 315-104-6608.  He can squeeze 10 – 12 people in, but it’s more comfortable for 6 – 8 people.  For 6 or more, in 2013 he charged 150 pesos per person round trip.  It’s a little higher for less than 6 people.  Another option is to take a taxi from the Blue Bay Hotel.  If you have sufficient Spanish to call, you may even be able to get one to pick you up at the palapa restaurant in Tenacatita (La Vena).  In 2013, a small cab holding 3 – 4 people was 200 pesos each way or 400 pesos round trip.

This year, we found the tiendas in La Manzanilla to be better supplied than those in Barra.  We found a good selection of produce, including mushrooms, eggplant, and red bell peppers.  I even found  half and half (crema ligera)and heavy cream (crema para batir) in a couple of tiendas.  (We dilute heavy cream with milk to make ½ and ½ for our coffee).

Mariscos Deli - aka "The Canadian Deli"

Mariscos Deli – aka “The Canadian Deli”

A tremendous find is Mariscos Deli, known to cruisers as the “Canadian deli”, which has been open for a couple of years.  The deli offers excellent cheeses and deli meats, as well as meat pies, English muffins,  ground lamb, hot Italian sausages, house-made pickles, good bread, Costco-sized bags of good potato chips, and other hard-to-find items.  You can call them at 315-351-7041 or email mariscosdeli@hotmail.com .  On a recent trip, we made our purchases early in the day and they held them in their fridges and freezers until we were ready to head back to the boat.

Pedro's Tacos - Pedro will tell you they are the best in the galaxy; he might be right!

Pedro’s Tacos – Pedro will tell you they are the best in the galaxy; he might be right!

Other places of interest to cruisers include Pedro’s Tacos – a truck near the cocodrillos reserve – with excellent inexpensive Baja-style tacos.  Another favorite stop is Pollo Asada, the “flat chicken” place near the panga landing.  Services are also available in town: Chris managed to get a filling replaced at the local dentist who provided excellent, hygienic service.  Note that there are no ATMs in La Manzanilla, but it is possible to take an inexpensive bus to Melaque if you need to resupply cash.

An additional note for those with pets aboard:  Melaque, Barra, and La Manzanilla now all have veterinarians, which also carry pet food and supplies.  In Melaque, the vet is Beto whose phone number is (315) 355-6782, or home (315) 355-6238.  In La Manzanilla, we found Rocio about 1 1/2 blocks uphill from Palapa Joe’s.  Her cell phone number is 315-112-9708.  In Barra, we found two young veterinarians operating “Mi Mascota” on Guanajuato between Veracruz and Mazatlan streets.  Their phone number is 314-141-8046 or 315-112-4433.  None of the veterinarians speak much English.

For human medical emergencies, note that both the Blue Bay Hotel in Tenacatita and the Wyndham Isla Navidad hotel (aka Grand Bay) in Barra de Navidad both have doctors on staff who are willing to treat cruisers.  Contact the front desk in person or by calling 315-351-5020 (Blue Bay in Tenacatita) or 314-331-0500 (Isla Navidad in Barra).

Posted in Mexico - First Edition, Updates to Publications | Leave a comment

What the heck is Quark?

Quark and crackers For my first cheesemaking experiment aboard, I started with Quark, a very simple soft cheese that is the oldest form of cheese in Europe.  Most of the cheese recipes in “Home Cheese Making” by Ricki Carroll start with a gallon of milk.  To make things easier on myself, I had purchased a bunch of 4 liter packets of Nido so I only had to measure 3600 ml of water into my pan and pour in the packet of milk powder.  The first thing I discovered is that my go-to large saucepan is not large enough to hold a gallon of milk!  So, I dragged out the stockpot that came with our cookwear set – the only pot on the boat that is rarely used.

Stirring the buttermilk starter into the warmed milk.

Stirring the buttermilk starter into the warmed milk.

For Quark, I only had to heat the milk to 88 degrees, or about 10 degrees above the temperature at which the water comes out of the tap.  That took just a couple of minutes in spite of the quantity of liquid.  When it reached temperature, I immediately removed the stockpot from the heat, and stirred in a packet of direct-set buttermilk starter (available from Ricki the  Cheese Queen).  Then I put the cover on the pot and shoved it to the back of the stove and left it to culture for 24 hours.

The next day, the large stockpot was full of very soft curds.  I was expecting more of a separation between the curds and whey, which would have reduced the volume I needed to drain.  Luckily, I have two colanders aboard – one large and one medium-sized.  I made my next mistake when I lined them with the butter muslin (very fine cheesecloth).  I planned to use a double layer with a slight overhang of the colander rim.  I quickly discovered that I needed more overhang so that I could form the butter muslin into a bag and tie off the neck to drain the curds.  So, I scraped the curds back into the pot, unfolded the muslin and started again.

Curds of quark formed as the milk rested overnight.

Curds of Quark formed as the milk rested overnight.

The directions called to drain the curds overnight in the fridge.  Well, I can tell you right now:  in a crowded boat fridge, that ain’t happenin’!  The recipe suggested that you can speed up the draining process by putting a container of water atop the muslin bag of curds. So, that’s what I did, leaving the cheese to drain for several hours.  By that time, the cheese had a nice consistency – enough body to hold its shape, but soft enough to mix in other ingredients.  My total yield was a little less than two pounds, or about 5 cups.  The recipe said that yield would be 1 – 1 ½ pounds, so I may not have drained it as much as the book calls for.

After draining, the quark has a smooth and firm texture.

After draining, the Quark has a smooth and firm texture.

Quark is pretty bland on its own, so I divided it into smaller batches to try different combinations of additives to make spreads for crackers, toast, sandwiches, etc.  We found that the Quark softened but did not melt when heated, making it good for fillings.  Here are some of the things we tried:

Honey-Walnut Spread:  we wanted a sweet spread to use on toast at breakfast, so I toasted and finely chopped some walnuts, and mixed it into the Quark with a little salt, some honey, and a bit of cinnamon.  I didn’t try to measure; I just started with a glob of Quark and kept adding the ingredients a little at a time until I liked the taste.  This one was definitely a keeper.

Herbed Quark:  I took another glob of Quark and mixed it with salt and a good amount of herbs.  You could use any herbs you like and have on hand.  I wanted an Herbs de Provence kind of taste, so added basil, rosemary, thyme, oregano, tarragon, and lavender.  Okay, I’m kind of an herb and spice nut, so I have WAY more herbs than the usual cruising boat.  We used this mixture both as a spread on crackers and as a filling for omelets.  Very nice!  And thanks to Nicki on S/V Seychelles for another use:  she stuffed chicken breasts with the Herbed Quark, wrapped them in foil, and cooked them on the grill.  Yum!

Quark with Black Olives and Walnuts:  I toasted and chopped some walnuts, chopped some black olives, and mixed them into Quark with a bit of salt.  This one was very popular as a spread on crackers at one of our Friday night raft-ups in Tenacatita.

Spicy Quark with Pickled Jalapenos and Onions:  Some salt, and a bit of finely minced pickled jalapenos and pickled red onions made Quark into a spicy but tasty spread for crackers.  Definitely a bit of a bite, but not over the top.

BOTTOM LINE:  The Quark was a great experiment, and made a wonderful cheesy base to work with.  Realistically, it’s probably more trouble that most cruisers will put up with.  But if you’re the adventurous type, or just desperate for a new cruising appetizer, give it a try!

Quark Making Illustrated

Preparing to make quark: thermopen,measuring cup, whisk, buttermilk starter, and Mido (milk powder).

Preparing to make Quark: thermopen,measuring cup, whisk, buttermilk starter, and Nido (milk powder).

Packet of Buttermilk starter from Ricki the Cheese Queen.

Packet of Buttermilk starter from Ricki the Cheese Queen.

Quark resting overnight off heat.

Quark resting overnight off heat.

A colander is lined with butter muslin to accept the curds.

A colander is lined with butter muslin to accept the curds.

Scooping the curds into a butter muslin lined collander.

Scooping the curds into a butter muslin lined colander.

The corners of the butter muslin are gathered together and tied into a bag.

The corners of the butter muslin are gathered and tied into a bag.

The bag of quark is allowed to drain in a colander.

The bag of Quark is allowed to drain in a colander.

A container of water placed on the bag speeds drainage of the whey.

A container of water placed on the bag speeds drainage of the whey.

Quark mixed with various add-ins makes a great appetizer.

Quark mixed with various add-ins makes a great appetizer.

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“Oven-Crashed” Potatoes

crashed_potatoes_43

Local red potatoes.

Local red potatoes.

When provisioning the boat, it’s important to be flexible enough to take advantage of unexpected finds.  On a recent trip across Tenacatita Bay to La Manzanilla, Mexico we found tiny new potatoes and decided to make Chris’ favorite “oven-crashed” potatoes.  These crispy potatoes are an excellent side dish, especially with roasted or grilled meats.  We served them with grilled burgers made from ground lamb, which we found at the “Canadian deli” in La Manzanilla.

Ingredients:

Boiling potatoes

Boil the potatoes until tender.

  • A pound or so of small potatoes, preferably red
  • Salt and pepper
  • Olive oil
  • Parsley or cilantro, optional

Directions:

  1. Boil the potatoes until tender.
  2. Drain the potatoes and let cool for a few moments.
  3. Lay out the potatoes on a lightly greased sheet pan.
  4. Using a towel or hot pad to protect your hand, smash the potatoes with the heel of your hand until they are a little less than 1/2 inch thick.
  5. Season with salt and pepper and brush or drizzle with olive oil.
  6. Bake in a hot oven until crispy.
  7. Garnish with a little minced parsley or cilantro, if you have some.

If your grill is big enough to hold a small sheet pan, you may be able to crisp the potatoes on the grill instead of heating up the oven.  Although small red potatoes work best in this recipe, you can use any available potatoes.  If your potatoes are large, cut them into quarters before “crashing.”

 

Oven Crashed Potatoes Illustrated

Crashing potatoes

“Crash” the potatoes with the protected heel of your hand.

Salting the potatoes

Lightly salt and pepper the potatoes after crashing.

Oiling potatoes

Apply a little olive oil to the potatoes to help them crisp.

Potatoes emerging from the oven

Crashed potatoes come out of the oven crispy and browned.

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Fresh English Muffins!

Homemade English MuffinsWe love English muffins for breakfast and they are very hard to find outside the U.S.  Experimenting with various recipes convinced me that it was practical to make English muffins aboard.  I don’t go to the trouble all the time, but about once a month we treat ourselves to a batch.

This recipe makes about 8 large, thick “Wolferman” style muffins or 12 – 14 smaller, thinner muffins.

This recipe makes 8 large and thick muffins or 12-14 smaller ones.

This recipe makes 8 large muffins or 12-14 smaller ones.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons 105°-115° water
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
1 cup water
1/2 cup milk
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
4 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons butter, softened

Directions:

Dissolve yeast in 2 tablespoons of warm water. Combine 1 cup water, milk, sugar, salt, and yeast mixture. Gradually beat in 2 cups flour to make a sponge. Cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let the sponge rise in warm area for 2 hours or until dough collapses back into the bowl.  The timing isn’t particularly critical.  You just want to make sure that the sponge is nicely bubbly and light.

Next, you will beat in the butter. Beat or knead in the remaining flour. The dough will be very, very soft.  Add more flour if you need to, but only enough to allow you to handle the dough.  Press dough to a thickness of about ½ inch and cut out with muffin rings, a biscuit cutter, or a glass.  Your yield will vary a great deal based on how thick you roll the dough and the size of your cutter.  I use muffin rings, but that’s not something that most folks have aboard.  You can make your own with empty tuna cans if you like.  However, instead you can just cut out the muffins with a biscuit cutter or glass.  To keep them from spreading as they rise, wrap a narrow strip of plastic wrap or foil around the edge of each muffin and place them side by side in a lightly greased 9 x 13 pan.

Two skillets makes the cooking process go faster.

Two skillets makes the cooking process go faster.

Let the muffins stand until the dough has doubled in bulk. Carefully slip a thin pancake turner under the muffin, remove plastic wrap or muffin ring, and transfer to a medium-hot, well-buttered griddle or skillet.  Cook until light brown on the first side, turn and cook until light brown on the other side, a total of about 8 minutes.  I use two skillets to make the cooking go more quickly.

Cool the muffins on a rack or on a clean dish towel.  Split muffins with a fork before toasting.  We love them spread with butter, peanut butter, or jam.

Happy Toasting!

Heather, The Cruising Cook

 

Illustrated English Muffins

Dissolve yeast in 1/4 cup warm water.

Dissolve yeast in 2 tbsp. of warm water.

Combine yeast mixture with milk and other ingredients.

Combine yeast mixture with milk and other ingredients.

Allow the sponge to rise until doubled.

Allow the sponge to rise until doubled.

Sponge should be light and bubbly.

Sponge should be light and bubbly.

Mix or kneed in rest of flour.

Mix or knead in rest of flour.

Cut dough with muffin rings, biscuit cutter or glass.

Cut dough with muffin rings, biscuit cutter or glass.

Let muffins rise until doubled without spreading.

Let muffins rise until doubled without spreading.

Allow muffins to cool on rack or clean dish towel.

Allow muffins to cool on rack or clean dish towel.

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